Golf in Kanchanaburi

In Thailand, 13 miles west of Bangkok's maze, we find the town of Kanchanaburi. There the death railway winds and two real rises when it comes to golf courses. Here it’s not difficult to ease off the gas and be caught by the strong wind of history.

We leave the bustle and heat of Bangkok and travel to Kanchanaburi where two golf courses await - Nichigo and Mission Hills, both with housing on the course. But before we, winter pale and out of practice in 30-degree heat, take out our clubs, a boyhood dream has to be realised: on the road to Kanchanaburi, we see the bridge over the River Kwai. Perhaps you have seen the film from 1950 with William Holden and Sir Alec Guinness? A classic, however, the film was not filmed in Thailand but in Sri Lanka.

We are standing in front of the station-house in Thamkrasae, 150 kilometres west of Bangkok, and we see the bridge over the River Kwai ourselves. The rails over the river rest on eight large cement foundations. The stretch known as the Death Railway connects Thailand with Burma and it’s 410.5 kilometres long.

The Death Railway got its name because over 100,000 people died during the construction period. It was estimated to have taken five years but it took just 17 months. The workers were Japanese soldiers, prisoners of war and forced Asian labourers. To say that the working conditions were abysmal would be an understatement...

It’s easy to shake off history when we get to the Mission Hills Resort and GC. You don’ need to play many holes to realize that this excellent course is "American". None other than Jack Nicklaus - or rather his company Golden Bear - has designed the course. The cost for design in 1991: one million dollars. Nicklaus was even better paid when he came and made an appearance at the opening: $ 2.5 million.

There are plenty of huge bunkers and water that forces you to think before you act. The approach to the 17th green is not to play around with - the green is on an island ...

We're also visit Nichigo Resort & GC, a 27-hole facility that markets itself as one of Asia's best. Sure, the course is good but that good? We are not capable of judging.
But the story captures us almost immediately: the ninth hole at River-loop is a copy of The Bridge on the River Kwai. The course is well worth playing. But don’t be surprised if you see six players in a group, it’s allowed. At weekends however there are max five allowed.

At the entrance to Nichigo is a Buddha statue. Yes, we saw traces of willing victim players. Perhaps the game went smoothly. 

MISSION HILLS GOLF CLUB
Opened: 1991
Course designer: Jack Nicklaus
Number of holes: 18
Par: 72
Handicap requirement: no.
Caddie (required): TBH 200 (expect about the same amount in tips)
Phone: +66-34644147/8
Fax: +66-34644323
Homepage: golfmissionhills.com
E-mail: hills@ksc.th.com
Rating: Inviting, spectacular course in American design. Water, large bunkers, palm trees.

NICHIGO GOLF CLUB
Opened: 1992
Course designer: Mituaki Kobayashi, Japan
Number of holes: 27
Par: 72
Handicap requirement: No
Caddie fee: Same as Mission Hills.
Phone: +66-34518/9
Fax: +66-34513334
Homepage: http://nichigo-resort-&-country-club.th66.com/
E-mail: info@nichigoresort.com
Rating: Wide fairways, not so much water. More forgiving than Mission Hills.

Text: Göran Söderlund. Photo: Lars Andersson.