A round of golf on the Westman Islands is a magnificently beautiful nature experience but expect to use a rain suit since the little island bobs up and down in the straits between Greenland and Island.

 
Herjólfur Bárdarson was according to legend the first inhabitant of Herjólfsdalur. In 1971 the ruins of a settlement believed to be from the nineth century was laid bare. Now, at the time of writng, just in time for the big annual festival, the first weekend in August when thousands of people from all over Iceland set up tents in the valley, they built the houses the way they believe they once looked like. Whether it was Herjólfur Bárdarson or Ormur Bardarsson the dispute is about, it is apparent that about a thousand years later, in December 1938, 36 golfers occupied the valley in the guise of the Westman Islands Golf Club. Originally built with just six holes which later on became nine and first in 1994 it was expanded to an eighteen hole course. The volcano Eldfell’s eruption delayed an already planned expansion. Just removing the ashes took four years.

The golf course has been ranked among the 200 best in Europe. Steep mountain slopes separate the course to the north, and in the west the sea and the wind have free rein. Many are the balls that have ended up in the sea between tee and green on the seventeenth hole, a par 3 of 138 metres with a bay made up of steep black slopes of lava between. Anyone who wants to take a break before teeing off can take an easy climb down to Kaplagjóta -- Kapla Cave - with its strange, black mountain slopes.

The club has about 300 members, 100 of whom are young people. During my visit at the beginning of the summer holidays, 80 young people between seven and fourteen years had come from the entire Island to practice and play. Otherwise, it is relatively quiet on the course and usually tee times do not require booking in advance.

The weather and the wind change very rapidly and I recommend investing in good clothes that can withstand rain and bad weather, rather than bringing sunscreen. Personally I've only seen the Westman Islands golf course from the bright side, but I know that there are days in a row when you don’t see a neighbor's house because of fog. If you’re lucky with the weather it can be difficult to take your eyes off the magnificent surroundings in order to concentrate on the game, golf or no golf. For those of you who go to the trouble of coming here so expect scenery and a golf experience you will never forget.

By Bengt Öberg